Italy Marcialonga Revisited
Saturday is the day to check out the race course in the valley. Four meters wide, one meter deep and 70 kilometers long all formed with man-made snow. This is the Marcialonga’s way of guaranteeing a race in spite of the lack of snow in the Val Di Fiamme and Val de Fassa. We drove to the ski stadium in Lago Tesero. The stadium was crawling with wax technicians and Norwegian skiers from Elite to Citizen level. Marcialonga is now recognized as the world’s second largest Norwegian race. The Norse, 3000 strong, outnumber  the native Italians. We headed up river towards the start area. Along the way, we met an Australian friend Marg Wharrie, whose husband Bruce was suffering a serious lung infection…and was still planning to ski the race the next day.  After a fifteen kilometer ski we were satisfied that the wax would work for us and the course was as I remembered it from 2005.
On Race Day we awoke at 4:30 am to prepare for the day. At 6 am we headed out to find the bus to the start. The designated pickup point is Bar Sport in Curano.  Fortunately we were told by the family we rented our apartment from that the Bar was long gone and where it once stood is a beauty salon…so then we knew where to wait. In the start area we had lots of time to test our wax. Since I was in the second last start group, a result of my late registration, I had lots of time to watch the Elite Skiers start. After some photos, I headed to the warm-up tent to get rid of my warm-up clothes and pack my bag for transport to the finish line.  I headed to my pen 20 minutes before my scheduled departure. Stripped of my warm-ups, I joined in with everyone else and danced to the disco and techno sounds of Euro-pop to fight off the morning chill. At 9:15 am the scheduled start time, nothing happened. I looked to the adjacent pen and they hadn’t budged yet either. I slipped on my over-mitts and settled in for a chilling wait. Forty-five minutes later we finally carried our skis out of the pen towards the start area. I was so relieved that I forgot about how cold I had gotten. On with the skis and out through the gate with another 500 skiers. There were over 7,000 registered for this event and the logistics of getting that number of skiers out onto the trail was horrendous…but it did happen. The initial pace was at times painfully slow. Every climb was preceded by a wait, followed by an even longer wait before any significant descent. Fortunately most of this slow start was bathed in brilliant sunshine and I had ample time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery and views of village life as we skied through the numerous towns and villages of the Fassa and Fiamme Valleys. At times we dodged the narrow passages between the ancient buildings that I had previously cycled through in the Giro delle Dolomiti bike race. The dense skier traffic ground to a halt on every ascent and again as we lined up to descend. The good part is that the Marcialonga is mostly flat, so much so that most Elite Skiers simply double pole this Classic Race with fast gliding skate skis devoid of grip wax. This aberration dramatically widens the gulf between the Elite and us Citizen Ski Racers. The downside is that most of the climbs are concentrated in the first quarter where the throng had yet to dissipate. The result is a slow, stop, and sprint pace with icy descents scraped free of loose snow. The sun peaked into the cool valley, warming and illuminating the Dolomite Peaks lining the valley of Fire. I am just happy to be a part of this magnificent event. At the far eastern end of the valley we reached the apex near Canazai. I recognized the Sports Center where I previously enjoyed post bike race meals during the Giro delle Dolomiti. We crossed the river and followed the valley on its 45 kilometer decent to the other end. The Soraga climb slowed progress down to a crawl. At the top volunteers signaled numerous crashes on the descent. I joined the majority of cautious skiers and removed my skis and walked down this dangerous descent that claimed and maimed numerous challengers including my friend Bob Palliser, who gave up a ski pole in the challenge of remaining upright. As I put my skis back on I caught up to Bruce who started at least five waves ahead of me. Slowed by his lung infection, he was making a valiant effort to complete the race for a valuable stamp in his World Loppet Passport. I soon passed the familiar start area, but now I was on the other side of the river heading downhill towards the stadium in Lago Tesero. In the Stadium I was handed a hot sweet Espresso…just the lift I craved. As I neared the turnaround in Molina and skiers doubling back, I heard a familiar voice calling my name as I passed. It was Jay Weiner from the US and a five times World Loppet Passport Master. We exchanged greetings and I pushed on. In Molina I crossed the river received another Espresso…some Trentingrana Cheese and prepared for the “upriver swim” to the ultimate climb from the valley floor to the main Piazza finish in Cavalese some 300 meters  above. My durable wax job allowed me to bypass the Klyster rollers and ski up the ultimate ascent past numerous backsliding herringbone skiers. This climb is unforgettable. I recognized every twist and turn on the main street of Cavalese past the cheering fans. Finally, under the bridge, past the big cheese the finale awaited; a bowl of hot pasta, a stamp in my passport and smile on my face.

Germany Konig Ludwig Lauf Revisited
Oberamergau, Germany is famous for its Passion Play, held once every ten years. It is less famous for the annual Konig Ludwig Lauf ski race, named after the Bavarian King Ludwig II. Ludwig is best known as an eccentric, whose legacy is intertwined with its history of art and architecture. He commissioned the construction of several extravagant fantasy castles and palaces, the most famous being Neuschwanstein, and was a devoted patron of the composer Richard Wagner. Since his legacy of grandiose castles lives on in the form of massive tourist revenue, King Ludwig is generally well liked and even revered by many in Bavaria today.
I skied this race before in 2006. The point to point course starts near the town of Ettal, home to a spectacular cloister and domed cathedral. The race zigzags through the mostly flat valley and climbs a couple of moderate hills, climaxing at one of Ludwig’s landmarks, Schloss Linderhof. We arrived in Oberamergau with a week to explore and prepare for the Skate Race on Saturday and the Main Classic Race on Sunday. The valley was immersed in a cold, damp, icy, fog. In contrast to Italy this Bavarian valley was painted white with snow and frost. There was just enough snow to cover the course. However the sunny sides of the valley were brown. Our apartment was a short walk from the finish line, so we headed for the trail at our first opportunity. Skate skiing is a great way to do our first day’s reconnaissance. We could cover a lot of ground and examine the tracks and snow conditions without committing to grip wax. We quickly discovered the thinness and fragility of the track. The snow was old, crusty and thin, but it was snow. We headed towards the start area in Ettal. I recognized the start field and the skyline of Ettal. From there we followed the course. As I recalled, it led up a steep climb a couple of kilometers from the start. I was glad to see that this bottleneck had been eliminated. We then headed up the only significant climb towards Linderhof, some sixteen kilometers up the valley. The castle is even more spectacular than I remembered it. The Trail seemed to oddly dead end beyond the castle. We enjoyed coffee and cake at the Schloss Hotel before heading down the hill back to Oberamergau.

On Saturday, Skate Race Day, the race course had been shortened to 42 kilometers due to the lack of snow. The Linderhof section had been eliminated and replaced by two 20 kilometer laps in the valley through the start field and a final straightaway to Oberamergau. In the morning we headed out of our apartment near the finish line to grab a free shuttle bus to the start. There are only 700 skiers in the Skate Race making for an orderly start. The gun blast starts us double poling out onto the track. After a couple of kilometers we wind past the skyline of Ettal and head to the cool shadowy side of the valley in the woods and up some gentle climbs with minimal traffic slowdowns. The pace is easy as we wind through the gently rolling valley. Periodically I spot the unmistakable ski suits of the United Bakers Elite Team from Norway. Thomas Alsgaard, the famous Norwegian Cross Country Ski Racer, and company are testing skis for the next day’s Classic Race. I watch while a pair of skiers trade classic skis for skate skis as they double pole past me as if I were standing still. They are planning to double pole the Classic Race on skate skis without grip wax making the gulf between the Elite Skiers and the Citizen Racers even wider. At the start of the only significant climb we grind to a halt. Some foolhardy skiers try to sneak past us by passing us on our right side just off the trail. The jeering crowd doesn’t deter them, but justice prevails as most of these skiers are thwarted by the deep crusty snow just off the trail. My patience pays off as we descend out of the woods and into the sun filled field. In the distance I see the Elite skiers completing the first lap and heading back to the start field. I still have some ways to go. There are probably as many skiers in front of me as behind me. I push on and through the first lap. As I head for the final road crossing of the last lap I spot Bob on the other side. He is about 400 meters ahead of me with about three kilometers to go to the finish. This motivates me, I think I might be able to catch him. I pick up my pace and start passing most of the skiers I have been surrounded by. As I approach the river I can hear the sounds from the finish line. Over the bridge and into the stadium I skate. I spot Bob as I cross the finish line just ahead of me. A bite to eat, some Konig Ludwig Weissbier and a stamp in my World Loppet Passport finish my day.
The Main event is the Classic Race on Sunday with about 1500 participants including Thomas Alsgaard and company. The start is a lot more congested with more than two times the number of participants. The good news is classic tracks fit more skiers in less space. The traffic is not much worse than the previous day. I can’t say the same for me. I was feeling the strain of my third ski marathon. The gun sounds and we’re off. The course is very familiar. With the increased traffic, the small up hills slow me down as I wait to pass on the tracks. The traffic starts to open up after each climb. The warm sun glares as I head down the valley. It is a race against the warming snow conditions. Once again the jeering crowd expresses disapproval of skiers butting in on the climb. It’s a repeat of yesterday only different. I am worried that the Elite Skiers will lap us before we can complete the first 20 kilometer loop. As I approach the turnaround for my second lap. I hear the helicopter overhead following the leaders. It wasn’t quite overhead but they were not far back. My second lap yesterday was about three minutes faster than my first, mainly from traffic congestion. Today my second lap is about two minutes slower. I attribute this to less traffic congestion, slower snow from the warming temperature and personal fatigue. On my second lap I clear the turnaround zone and head back to the river and the familiar track back to Oberamergau. The Oom-Pa-Pa band plays as I once again cross the finish line to complete my third marathon.

France Transjurassienne Revisited
It was on Thursday that we made the long drive to the Jura. We checked in to the same Hotel just inside the Swiss border that we stayed at in 1999. That was a very memorable race. It was my very first World Loppet Race outside of Canada and it was the most challenging because of the weather. It had rained hard for the entire 76 kilometers and the temperatures hovered around the freezing point. The area today was a real contrast to the way I remembered it. In 1999 there were record snowfalls and the white valley was constantly shrouded in cloud, fog, snow and rain. This time it was brilliant sunshine, green fields and very few patches of snow.
On Friday we headed for the bib pickup in Morez and to get the latest scoop on the race plans…like where we would find snow in this snowless valley. At the Sports Center we received instructions and a pass for the ski trail. It wasn’t easy to find. We stopped at the snowless Ecole National de Ski de Fond and asked where the snow was.
They pointed us down the road. Sure enough just beyond a small downhill lift in the shadows of the mountains we found the patch of man-made snow that would be our racing home for the next two days.
It looked pretty scary. Hay bales spread out on muddy fields, patches of green, white and brown. Not quite the tricolor French flag. We headed out dodging grooming machines, dump trucks and other skiers. We sidestepped ice, dirt and other obstacles as we tried to figure out where the trail led. It took us up some substantial climbs and then it lead us to some dead ends.
Early the next morning, we caught the shuttle bus to the start of the Classic Race. To our amazement the course had been transformed overnight. Where there was ice the day before, there were tracks. It looked like it might actually be skiable. The Classic Race is the European Cup Classic Championship and not the main Marathon Cup Skate Race. The field was about 750 skiers. The Elite Skiers started first, my wave started shortly after that. Just like at the Marcialonga I carried my skis into the starting pen, put them on and headed out. My individual start time commenced when I crossed the start line triggered by my chip. The icy tracks worked with my well Klystered skis. I was thankful for the positive grip as we climbed. The down hills, although icy in sections were surprisingly manageable. As I approached the summit I heard the unmistakable sound of a snowmobile coming up behind me. It could only mean one thing, that the Elite Skiers were catching us Citizens Racers. Stanislav Rezac of the Czech Republic was alone and whizzed by, as if he was being pulled by the camera sled. It took a couple of minutes before any other contenders passed and it was just a handful at a time. The leaders were stretched out, making their passing uneventful. At the summit we followed some gentle rollers up and down. This was followed once again by a fast descent through ice and mush. The last time up this repeating set of climbs I caught up to Bob. He commented that I seemed to be getting better grip on the climb than him. I took that as a signal to push ahead. At the bottom of the next descent we headed through a tunnel under the road to the part of the trail that I had not yet experienced. Through the underpass I took advantage of the last feed station before heading up the final climb. It seemed endless. At the side there were lots of cheering fans, some were ringing bells. Near the summit there was an inventive Sheppard ringing a massive array of bronze cowbells. These bells were strung between the trees and activated via remote control by the reclining Sheppard pulling on a rope. I had to smile at his efficiency. At the summit I began the long descent past padded trees, through the narrow wooded trail on a ribbon of white that looked out of place in the brown forest. I zigzagged through the woods for a while before emerging into the cheering throng that lined the finishing straightaway. I felt good. This was a race that almost didn’t happen and finally I was ahead of Bob. After about a minute Bob crossed the finish line. After getting changed into my warm-ups in an unheated bowling alley we got our passports stamped. Bob’s time was ahead of me. As it turned out he had started after me.
On Sunday, Skate Race Day, the course had been modified again to accommodate the number of skiers, deteriorating conditions and the fact that skating skiers take up more space on the trail. They gave the Elite Skiers a one and a half hour head-start to prevent them from lapping the field as had happened during the Classic Race the day before. After the last Elite Skier cleared the starting field for the second time the Citizen Racers were allowed to trickle out onto the track. As I neared the top of the first climb I realized the extent of the course changes. The snow was thinner and murkier with lots of glare ice. As the slow moving conga line snaked up the steepest part of the climb we were ordered to keep to the extreme right, to allow descending skiers on the same trail to crash and burn unimpeded on their side of the blue line. This is a first for me, two way, up and downhill traffic on the same narrow track. I was actually hoping that my slow pace would keep me from tangling with uphill skiers on my downhill turn. The late start and warmer temperatures took its toll on the snow. The down hills consisted of ice with slush piles strategically placed. It was a real challenge staying upright. The two way descent was thankfully devoid of uphill skiers, giving me room to maneuver in the ice and slush. A crowd of observers stood and watched as we tried in vain to stay upright on the finale, slush and flush into the start field for the last lap. The underpass through to the last feed station was a familiar and welcome site. The final climb had volunteers shoveling snow onto the track to keep us sliding with only the occasional stick in the mud. I once again smiled as the rhythmic bells of the inventive Sheppard coaxed me up the final pitch. The descent was moderated by the sticky snow with a little ice and dirt thrown in for variety. Through the finishing straightaway, with cheers from the crowd, I could feel the warmth of the sun and the glow of another ski race snatched from the jaws of a conspiring Mother Nature. Over the line, I waited for Bob. He was nowhere to be found. He was probably so far ahead I would find him in the unheated bowling alley change room. I collected my warm-ups,  got changed and finally Bob arrived. I was surprised I had actually finished ahead of him this time.--Saul

VIDEO---NOW PLAYING
World Loppet Preview Saul Goldman This preview is set in Italy, France and Germay
FIS World Nordic Ski Championships, Oslo 2011 -A Portrait of the Event by a Canadian, Saul Goldman
After my skiing adventure in Italy, Germany and France I returned home. I was home for just a week and a half and then flew off tho Oslo, Norway to enjoy the World Nordic Ski Championships. It was marvelous to see over 100,000 spectators taking in the displays of Nordic Skiing.
I was there to see Canada's first ever Gold Medal performance at a World Championship.
Watch my video to taste the atmosphere of OSL2011.
If you have a fast connection watch it in High Definition--Saul
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