She hosted two winter Olympics and is home to a world Nordic Combined ski champion, will host the 2007 World Nordic Ski Championships and most people still don’t think of her as a ski destination.

Japan is stop number nine in my quest for world loppet mastery.

The Sapporo International Ski Marathon now in its 24th year is on the remote northern island of Hokkaido. The “California of Japan” as my Aussy friend Michael calls it. Hokkaido is unlike the rest of Japan. It is wild, uncrowded, full of wide open spaces and has a kind of frontier mentality. In fact it as close to Canada as Japan can be and that is about 10,000kms. In winter it is cold and it snows…a lot. (about 500cm in Sapporo on average) English is not a commonly occurring second language. It is a challenge trying to navigate in rural Japan with no native language skills. I was delighted when a Japanese friend and loppet master offered to host me for my week in Sapporo.

Minoru Matsuyama is a dedicated World Loppet Master. Along with his wife Tomoko and 4year old son Suomi (whose name although it sounds Japanese is actually Finnish for Finland) were gracious hosts.

Upon arrival my first task was to familiarize myself with basic skills like how to use the toilet. When faced with the electronic control panel all I could think of was that scene in Stanley Kubric’s epic film 2001 with “instructions in the use of zero gravity toilet” on a space station. Well it isn’t rocket science. Along with using the efficient public transit system and communicating my dietary preferences to restaurateurs I figured it all out. Vegetarian is “Begetarian” and no Pork becomes “ie porku”.

My first day’s assignment is Go Skiing. The Destination is Takino Park. The park is reached easily by bus. I meet a couple of Australians at the subway station. They have the ‘advantage’ of having been to the park the previous day. After getting on the wrong buss, I ask a Japanese man carrying skis, “Takino Park?” He points us to the appropriate buss and we are off. Thirty minutes later and we arrive at the park. It is set in the pristine hills just south of Sapporo. There is a small downhill ski hill, crowded with colourfully dressed young school kids and an immaculately groomed cross-country ski trail. The trail closely parallels the marathon trail in location and geography. The Sapporo Ski Marathon trail will not be open for a few more days. In fact the marathon trail which follows the 1972 winter Olympic ski trails is groomed only for the race and is promptly ploughed over following the race. According to Minoru, Takino is the place to ski and train for the Marathon. So Takino it is. Cross-country skiing is free at Takino. The main chalet building is modern clean and efficiently constructed with washrooms, change rooms with lockers and a pleasant restaurant and gift shop. After a quick change into our ski gear my Aussy friends Allan and Stuart and I head for the trails. I am told that the 15k trail is the most challenging so that is where we head. Allan and Stuart are classic skiing. I have my skate skis. We split up, agreeing to meet for lunch. I head up the first climb along a ridge heading for a small astronomical observatory. My heart is pounding on this climb. It’s not the elevation, which is only 400m, it’s not the pace. I’m not going that fast. It’s the Jet Lag. After all to my body clock it is two in the morning, not my usual training time. I ease up letting my heart catch up with my desire. I follow the ridge along a wide open windblown section, past a snow tubing park towards a long downhill. The breath-taking descent takes me past an elaborate adventure playground made up of ropes ladders and castles. Looks like a fun place in the summer. The mountainous horizon is spectacular. In the distance a downhill ski resort is the only sign of human intervention. This is not the over developed, heavily industrialized, populated Japan I expected. The trail wound up and down hills through pines. If not for the occasional trail sign in Japanese and the bright green foliage of bamboo shooting out of the deep snow pack I could have been back home. However, the temperature was a comfortable -2C and there was 200cm of the lightest fluffiest driest snow imaginable. After a winter of -20’s and 30’s this was very unlike skiing back home. Even on those few mild ski days when the temperature approaches the melting point the snow is usually heavy, wet and dense back home. Here the snow falls like feathers and blankets the land like a duvet, warm, dry and light. For the most part I had the trail system to myself. I passed the occasional recreational skier along the trail, with a shy glance of acknowledgement. Where were all the marathon skiers training for the big race? Well they weren’t here, not today. I met Allan and Stuart on my second time around the inner 5k loop of the 15k circuit. We exchanged a little wax talk and took some snapshots then headed in for lunch. In the restaurant we bypassed the menu and headed for the wax models of today’s specials. We pointed to our choices hoping that the ingredients were what the appeared to be. They were.

The next day my aussy friend Michael Leany known as Mikaru Reeney in Japanese joined me at Takino Park. This time my heartrate is within my normal limits. My jet lag is wearing off, a good sign. The next day we decide to investigate the only other cross-country ski area listed on the internet. Sapporo Kita Hiroshima Prince Family Cross Country Course is located north of Sapporo on the golf course of the Prince Hotel. When we pull into the parking lot of the hotel we notice hundreds of young school kids downhill skiing. It looks like there is a race going on because they are all wearing racing bibs. We approach the ticket kiosk and ask about cross-country skiing. The friendly woman takes us on a quick tour of the ski trails by foot. It looks fine so we pay the trail fee of 1000Yen. We are handed two stretchy numbered racing bibs; trail passes. We grab our skis and head for the 7.5k trail. The grooming is immaculate and we are not only the first to break the corduroy we are the only cross-country skiers. The trail winds over gently rolling hills through the newly forested golf course and next to the small action packed downhill ski slope. The sun shines and the temperature hovers just below the freezing mark. After a couple of fast laps we are satisfied. We head back to the ticket kiosk return our bibs and are given 600Yen; deposit refund I guess.

Friday is the day before the race this the only day to ski the Sapporo Marathon Course or part of it. Michael and I agree to meet at the Sapporo Dome, site of the race and home to the 2002 World Cup of Soccer. The dome is an extravagant piece of sports architecture. It is home to the ‘real sports’ of Japan, baseball and football (soccer). To accommodate the unique field configurations of the two sports and the need for a natural grass field for World Cup Football, the playing surface retracts into the dome for football and slides outdoors for sun and ‘natural’ growth when the playing is done. From Minoru’s home in Makomanai it is an easy subway ride to the dome. It’s another sunny mild day and I’m off to ski the Sapporo Marathon Course. In my excitement I manage to walk three blocks before I realize that I’m going to need my skis. So I return to Minoru’s to get them…oops.

I head for the men’s change room at the dome. The change room is packed with mostly foreign skiers. There is no sign of Michael at the dome. As I am about a half hour late I head out on the trail alone. The finish line is right next to the dome. The start is about 2km out from the dome. The marathon course is 50km long, not a practical training distance the day before a race. I decide to follow the 25km course so that I can sample the start and finish sections including the bigger climbs. The course begins with a long flat section that starts to climb gently after about a kilometer. The climb is long and steady. At the top, a long straightaway faces the Sapporo skyline, a sight that I will welcome at the end of the Marathon tomorrow. On my return to the finish line I see Minoru heading up the hill towards me. Together we descend to the dome and a long flat winding approach to the finish line.

The international component of the Sapporo International Ski Marathon is comprised of about 50 skiers from outside Japan. Out of the 800 total participants this is a relatively small component. We are treated royally. We are allowed to register in advance without prepayment. We can pay cash at the bib pickup. We are given bib numbers from 100-150, making us even more conspicuous. We are even given places of distinction on the front line at the start. We are treated to a welcome party the evening before the race. At the welcome party we are treated to a lavish spread of hors d'oeuvres and wine. We are greeted at the party by distinguished politicians, members of the press and Japan’s top athlete’s including Nordic Combined Champion Kenji Ogiwara. The party runs from 5:00-6:00.

At 6:00pm our hosts start clearing the tables in a vain attempt to empty the room. The Russian contingent is just warming up and as long as the wine bottles are moist no one is leaving. This is the eve of a marathon ski race and my wine consumption is minimal. The Russians obviously know something about performance enhancement that I’m not privy to.

The morning of the race we gather at the dome. The change room appears to be dominated by foreigners. The entrance to the carpeted change room is demarked with a plastic mat taped to the floor beyond which shoes do not pass. This Japanese style entrance foyer makes for a clean dry floor. The scene in the change room is festive yet somber. With a reserved spot at the start line we have the luxury of waiting till the last minute prior to skiing the two kilometers to the start area. At the start area, orderly group warm-up calisthenics are in full swing. I take my spot on the line just as the Mayor of Sapporo makes his welcome speech. The final countdown and we are off. I guard my poles as we double pole through the start zone. We gingerly open up to a skate as the trail splits around some trees. On the merge side space begins to open. I breath deeply check my heartrate and ease into a sustainable pace. The trail starts up the long ascent to the heights above Sapporo. Into the woods we head. The trail winds up and down through the hills and into the woods that I skied yesterday. The Temperature is -4C the snow is fast and firm. Down-hills are a blast, the corners are safe and fun. At the 10k mark signs indicate a feed station coming up. Enthusiastic volunteers hold up cups and shouting, “Cow Piss, Hot’o, Cow Piss”. My prerace research told me that “Hot’o” is hot. “Cow Piss” is really a Japanese pronunciation of an energy drink known as Calpis. In preparation for this moment we purchased some Calpis to familiarize ourselves with the taste. This pleasant tasting milky beverage has only two things in English on the label; the name, “Calpis” and the slogan, “Try Happy”. A cup of “Hot’o Cow Piss” and I am off. Past the feed zone the trail returns for the 25k skiers. This is the unfamiliar section. My preparation at Takino Park is perfect. The trail winds up, down and around just like Takino. The skiers that I am playing leapfrog with are starting to look familiar. We are now spaced to encourage skiing at my own pace. Every now and then the Russians from yesterday’s reception come flying past only to come to a gasping halt on the next uphill where I scoot ahead. At this point something strikes me, something uniquely Japanese. It is oddly silent. Except for the occasional exchange in Russian not a word is spoken. The constant banter of the American Birkenbeiner is not to be heard on this trail. At the 42k mark I pass the Russians on the single toughest longest climb. It is 500meters and ascended 210meters. At the top it is clear. A revelation of clear thought presents the true meaning of “Cow Piss”. My legs are burning. My arms are like mush. But now my comprehension includes, “Try Happy”. The trail flattens onto the plateau above Sapporo. The familiar skyline peeks between the trees, indicating the last descent. I can just coast the 7k to the finish. In order to ‘Try Happy’ I push. On the rolling plateau the Russians blast by for the last time. The fast long descent leads to the junction with the 25k course. Slow moving recreational skiers give way to fast finishing marathoners. Across the vast plane the Silver Dome looms. For 5k it marks the Goal (finish). It is a magnet. The power of proximity takes over. As I sprint for the Goal I hear the announcer proclaim my name and country; 86 out of 600 finishers.

Over the line I enjoy a hot bowl of Miso Soup, a hot shower, dry cloths and fresh stamp in my World Loppet Passport. Inside the Triumphant Russians pass a silver flask of performance enhancing Congnac.

Epilogue

The morning following the Marathon, Michael and I headed out in our rented Toyota IST. This Subcompact car came equipped with four wheel drive, snow tires and a GPS. Even though the GPS operated in Japanese It was surprisingly useful. In combination with a good roadmap we only got lost a couple of times. In our week of exploring Hokkaido we learned a lot and I can happily dispel some popular misconceptions about travel in Japan. We drove a large loop around the island looking for places to ski and Onsen “Hot Springs” to soak in. The most remarkable side of Japanese culture to strike me was just how similar it is to the west.

misconceptions

1) Food Is expensive.

It all depends on your benchmark. If your benchmarks are Macdonald’s, Holiday Inn, Coca-Cola and coffee, then it is expensive. In Japan do as the Japanese do. You can get fresh inexpensive Sushi and other delicious prepared meals in supermarkets and convenience stores like 7-Eleven. There are lots of inexpensive small restaurants and Ramen Bars. If you are looking for expensive restaurants there are just as many as back home.

2) Accommodation is expensive.

In Japan Youth Hostels are clean, friendly and economical. Facilities vary from traditional to western style. There are also inexpensive small hotels. It is advisable to call ahead to make reservations. Even if they are empty they seem to expect reservations so they can be prepared for your arrival. There are lots of big expensive chain hotels, just like back home.

3) Driving a car is impractical.

In Hokkaido nothing could be farther from the truth. Traffic is minimal. Gas is only about 20-30% more expensive than Canada. Much cheaper than most of Europe. Car rentals are very economical if you can split the cost with at least one friend. An international drivers license is mandatory. The Japanese drive on the left, just like the British and the Australians. It is not that hard to adjust. Most important road signs are written in international pictographic and Roman alphabetic form. Speed limits are very low. On toll highways 80KPH and on regular highways 50KPH. It takes time to cover any distance, which is just as well.

4) Language is a problem.

Language can be a challenge, but never a problem. Even in remote rural Hokkaido many young people speak some English. Most people are extremely patient and courteous to foreigners. A Japanese phrase book can be useful.

conceptions

5) As a foreigner you will stand out in a crowd.

6) Expect to be greeted formally when you enter a business.

7) Don’t wear shoes in private homes and hostels beyond the entrance foyer.

8) Some Toilets are squat type some are western style.

9) Wash under the shower and soak in the bath tub.

10) Be open to the culture and you will enjoy it.