Tiramisu for Cyclists
Gabicce Mare by Saul Goldman
|
 |
Meandering banked downhill corners, smooth pavement, wide sweeping curves and suggestive panoramas, dull the memory of the challenging climbs. Medieval castles draw me to the top of the next ancient hilltop village. The rolling countryside is not unlike the familiar rolling farmland of Southern Ontario, but the vertical axis has been stretched to the limits of my flat-lander's legs. The orchards, vineyards and fields overflow with the delicious ingredients of the gourmet meals that fuel my engine. It is a rollercoaster ride through paradise. The only flat roads are the short sections through the lush green river valleys and the sand lined blue Adriatic coast. This is the desert ride...The Tiramisu that caps the morning main course of Cicli Turistico with 850 other cyclists on closed roads escorted by motorcycle riding Polizia. Through the open sunroof of the Fiat pace car protrudes the rotund figure of the Maestro. His Baton is a red flag and he waves furiously as he conducts the singing chorus of 1700 fast wheels rolling on smooth pavement accompanied by the ratcheting percussion of freewheels. Occasionally the solo voice of an Italian Cantaré or an Austrian Alpine yodel adds variety to the cycling cantata. |
 |
This is a taste of Gabicce Mare, a seven day spring feast of cycling. This twentieth anniversary reunion of cyclists is centred in the tiny Adriatic beach resort town sandwiched between Rimini and Ancona. It begins on Easter weekend with organized daily mass rides in the local countryside. Distances range from 50 to 100km. There is a mandatory refreshment stop at an historical castle or ancient hilltop village. The refreshments are accompanied by a live band and greetings from the local mayor in full mayoral regalia. The pace of the ride is controlled at a steady 25km/hr. Two course marshals flanking the pace car keep the procession in order. The pace is too slow for some. Loud vocal groans of complaint and occasional jockeying and bunching up of riders around the pace car results. This is not a race it is an Easter parade, a rite of spring. |
We would learn to use the afternoons to get our hearts pumping. The surrounding hills beckoned and our legs responded with afternoon exploration on our own at our own pace. We even tested ourselves on the gruelling 12km climb to the storybook, moutaintop Republic of San Marino. This is early season cycling at its finest. By the second day we all know our place in the parade. Most riders chose their place in the procession and stuck to it all week. I liked the front and eventually got to know the familiar faces and jerseys around me. There were Italians, Germans, Americans and my fellow Canadians. At the front I had a clear view of the road ahead and could ride without constant attention to the wheels in front of mine. There was grey hair, blue hair and no hair. Cyclists of all ages from 10-70. Most were experienced, riding smooth, straight, predictable lines; as smooth as their clean shaven legs. Most were on fine lightweight road bikes with the finest and latest componentry. They proudly wore colourful club jerseys and replica pro team jerseys as seen in the Giro d'Italia. The weeklong feast included optional races for the competitively inclined along with evening dances and entertainment. One afternoon featured a reception at a medieval vineyard complete with food, wine and music.
Our Host Romeo Alberico has been recruiting Canadian cyclists to join his annual pilgrimage to cycling's promised land since 1996. He has been proudly stocking up with Canadian Clothing and souvenirs in my store and encouraging me to join him in Gabicce Mare. I have seen the video and the photographs that document this annual cycling feast. This year I was out of excuses. The summer mail-order catalogue I produce was at the printer and my wife said go. Last year's video showed cyclists dressed in cold weather clothing and rain gear. This year it was sunshine and comfortable 18-24°C temperatures. After a cold, wet Toronto winter it was the relief I needed to satisfy my cycling hunger. Our accommodation was in a four star beach hotel with three spectacular multi-course meals in the Italian tradition. Romeo says Canadians merely eat to live while Italians live to eat. To that I add, I cycle to eat Italian food, roads and culture. After eight days, 700km, 24 meals, lots of espresso, gellatti, a little wine, a shot of grappa, 10 castles and one mountaintop republic, my cycling apatite is satisfied. |
|
Saul Goldman is a partner in Velotique.An established bicycle clothing and accessories specialty retail and mail-order operation based in Toronto. www.velotique.com
For more info on joining in next year, Visit the web site and go ride it with Romeo.
|
|
