Ski Waxing Clinics click on an underlined title for pictures

Cross-country Ski Waxing Clinics at Velotique

Waxing self-sufficiency is the goal of our free cross-country ski waxing clinics. We cover everything from selecting simple waxes, cleaning and application, to more advanced topics such as base prep and repair. You are welcome to attend one or both clinics. Space is limited, so register in advance online by phone, mail, or drop by to secure your space at the clinic. Each clinic lasts one hour and starts at 9:00am sharp on Saturday mornings.
Notes for the clinics are below

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Waxing Q & A

You can even send us your waxing questions via E-mail. Questions and answers will be posted within the week of receiving them.

Basic Waxing Notes

What You Need

• Cleaner Citrus Wax remover, Fiberlene lint-free wipes
  Scraper Swix Multi Scraper, Thick Plastic scraper, Metal Scraper
  Holder Swix Compact Vice or x-c ski form
  Fibertex Assorted Grades
  Cork Synthetic Waxing Corks and or buffers
  Wax Iron Toko Ultimate Iron or Iron Maiden
  Wax Warm prep glide wax, Cold finish glide wax, Swix or Kuus
  Classic Basebinder or cold grip wax
  Grip Waxes Toko Universal +/-, Swix Basic Grip Wax or VR Waxes
  Klisters Swix Universal and others
  

Clean
Cleanliness is next to...
Scrape any storage or residual wax off the base as thoroughly as possible using a plastic or metal scraper. Spray a liberal amount of citrus wax remover onto your base and soak for a couple of minutes. Use Fiberlene wiping paper to clean wax residue off of bases. Let the base air dry to a clean finish.

Wax
Glide wax is actually absorbed by modern porous ski bases.
Prime bases with an easily absorbed warm base wax. Melt and remelt a warm or universal glide wax at least 10 times. Make sure the skis cool between melting to prevent heat damage. Scrape the excess wax with a plastic or metal scraper. Melt a cold finish glide wax onto the glide zones of your base. Remelt this wax several times to insure even absorption. Scrape while wax is still warm. Remove wax from the textured base structure with a stiff nylon brush or power brush. Wax works best in combination with P-tex so make sure the wax is in the base not on the base.

Where
Find and mark your grip-zone.
Use the paper test or have your skis flex tested to find the grip zone. With 50% of your body weight on each ski mark the points where your base makes contact with a flat surface. The mid section under foot should not make contact. That is where the grip wax goes.

Easy Glide
Use a wipe-on glide wax like Toko Easy Glide wax.
Just wipe it onto the glide zone of your skis and buff with the polisher in the can. It’s as easy as polishing furniture and it works to protect your base and improve glide.

Easy Grip
Classic skiers can move faster with the correct wax applied to the grip-zone of their skis.
Grip wax has to be soft enough to allow snow crystals to penetrate when all your weight is on your kicking ski. The grip wax must be hard enough to release the snow as the skis slide into the glide phase. Snow crystals shear off the base allowing you to glide forward. Just like glide wax, grip wax should be primed into the base so it lasts longer. Use a base binder or cold wax compatible with your wax family. Crayon the base binder into the grip zone of your skis and melt it in with a waxing iron or smooth vigorously with a cork. Apply the grip wax of the day in thin layers. Crayon the wax on and smooth it by rubbing it with a cork. Cool your skis and test the wax. If you aren’t getting enough grip extend the grip zone forward by applying more wax. If that doesn’t work try a softer, warmer wax. If the wax is too sticky scrape it off and switch to a colder harder wax.

Choose grip wax for the day based on air temperature.
Adjust your choice based on snow age. If the snow is old, choose a slightly warmer wax to get better grip on the worn out, smoother crystals of old snow. If it has been a very cold night and you are skiing in the morning the snow will be colder than the current air temperature so pick a colder wax. Fresh new-fallen snow grips well with its sharp crystals so pick a colder wax.

New Skiers can use a simple grip wax system.
Two or three waxes may be all you need. Toko universal plus/minus or Swix Basic Grip Wax.
Start with one family of waxes.

Intermediate Skiers can use simple waxes or higher performance fluorinated grip waxes.

In wet or icy tracks
Klister is the only thing that works.
Apply this glue-like stuff indoors in a thin, smooth film to the grip zone. Allow skis to cool before skiing.

Protect Your Base
Strap skis together base to base with a separator to keep the bases from getting scuffed. Use Ski Bones, velcro straps or protective plastic sleeves. Store or transport waxed skis in a Ski Tube or Ski Bag.

Ski
Wax will help you get greater enjoyment out of skiing.
Keep track of what works for you.
If you need more help with wax read the Swix tech manual, ask more experienced skiers for help and sit in on our waxing clinics.

More Info
Swix Nordix Waxing Manual
Swix Nordic Waxing Video
Ask Saul

Advanced Waxing Notes

What You Need

• Repair Iron Base repair iron soldering iron and repair sticks
  Scraper Swix Multi Scraper, Thick Plastic scraper, Metal Scraper
  Holder Swix Compact Vice, Swix Pro 500, x-c ski form, or vice
  Sharpener File, 90° edge sharpener
  Sandpaper 180 grit recommended
  Fibertex Assorted Grades
  Brushes Shop Brushes, Nylon, Steel, Brass, Horsehair or Red Creek Power Brushes
  Klister Swix Universal and others
  Wax Remover Toko GelClean, Swix or Kuus Swix Hand cleaner, Fiberlene
  Fluoros Kuus TNT, Toko Streamline, Swix Cera F

Clean
Start by cleaning the area of the gouge. Use citrus wax remover to eliminate any waxy residue that would hinder patch adhesion.

Patch
Using the flat tip of a hot soldering or base repair iron. Melt p-tex from a base repair strip into the gouge. Bond the molten plastic by heating the base with the hot tip of the iron. Finish the heating process by using the tip to add new p-tex above the surface of the base and smooth.

Work fast
Do not overheat the base by concentrating the hot iron in one spot for very long. Blistering of your base may occur if the heat sensitive base adhesive breaks down. If it takes more than ten seconds to weld in a patch you are doing something wrong. Stop and allow the patch to cool before you reheat.

Work clean
Clean the tip of your iron with a wet sponge or a brass brush to keep the p-tex from scorching and smoking.

Flatten
Use a flat file to smooth the surface of the cooled patch. Scrape with a sharp thick steel scraper. Start scraping from the centre of the patch and work your way to the edges to avoid tearing. You may need to refill it until you can scrape it perfectly flat. If the patch tears our when you scrape, it means that you need to heat the base material better when you repatch. Lightly sand the smoothly scraped patch to eliminate ripples. Then deburr with fibertex.

Tricky Ones
Long scratches, deep cuts and edge dings can be trickier to fix. With long scratches start at one end and draw the molten p-tex using the repair stick along the scratch. Press the molten plastic into the base and smooth as you follow the scratch. If the gouge was deep enough to reveal the substructure of the ski or metal edge it will be necessary to use epoxy to glue the patch in or take it to a shop for repair. Edge dings look trickier than they are. Draw the molten p-tex over the ski’s edge and press the overhanging patch into the sidewall. Use a 90° downhill ski edge sharpener to smooth out the newly patched edge.

Structure
The smoothness of your ski base should match the texture of the snow.
The ideal structure will have tiny ridges along the base, less than half the size of snow granules. The coarser and wetter the snow the greater the structure. The coarsest structure can be achieved with the Multi Scraper’s rilling edge. Use the Structurite or Structure Ace for precise rills. For medium and fine structures use the appropriate brush and Fibertex. For temperatures down to -15°C use a steel brush. For colder temperatures use a brass brush. Brush in long strokes from tip to tail. This abrasion raises base hairs. Debur with fibertex. P-tex bases are malleable and you can smooth or flatten the structure by pressing it out with a thick, sharp plastic scraper. This makes it possible to structure and restructure your base many times during the life your skis.

Edge and Flatten
A flat base glides faster.
Check the edges for burrs and nicks. Use a straight edge to check for edge to edge flatness along the running surface of the ski. Minor flattening can be done with a sharp steel scraper. Use a 90° downhill ski edge sharpener to sharpen and put a burr on a steel scraper. The burr will help remove material from the base and flatten your ski. Scrape in long even strokes from tip to tail. Tilt the top of the scraper in the direction of travel for smooth scraping. Hold the scraper firmly without bending or flexing it. If it bends your base will not be flat. Scrape until the p-tex shavings are being scraped along the whole edge indicating a flat base. If the base is very concave or convex it may be necessary to use sandpaper and a sanding block to flatten. Use 180 grit paper wrapped on a flat sanding block. Sand in long strokes and finish sanding from tip to tail. Deburr your scraper by running a burr stone along edges of the scraper. Use the deburred scraper to finish-scrape the rough flattened base.

Deburr
All this abrasion with scrapers and or sand paper has raised tiny microscopic peach-fuzz-like hairs on your base. This stuff will slow the glide of your skis. Wrap fibertex around a sanding block or cork and scrub the hairs off the base and finish fibertexing from tip to tail.

Warm and Wet
Rill for wet snow above zero °C.
Rills are fine parallel grooves that can reduce base suction in wet snow. This coarsest of structures can be achieved with the Multi Scraper’s rilling edge. Run the serrated edge of the scraper along the gliding surface of your waxed skis as a final finish.

Use the Toko Structurite for precise rills in the base before glide waxing.
Remember to use a stiff nylon brush to remove wax from these rills after scraping.

Medium
For temperatures down to -15°C use a steel brush.
Run the brush in long firm strokes from tip to tail to form an evenly dull finish on your base. Remove the hairs raised by brushing with fibertex. Wax, scrape, then nylon brush to clear wax out of this structure.

Fine
For colder temperatures use a brass brush.
Brush in long strokes from tip to tail. Remove the hairs raised by brushing with fibertex. Wax, scrape, then nylon brush to clear wax out of this structure.

Restructure
P-tex bases are malleable and you can smooth or flatten the structure by pressing it out with a thick, sharp plastic scraper. This makes it possible to structure and restructure your base many times during the life your skis.

Klister
Wax for Unwaxable Conditions
Regular grip wax works when the snow has enough crystalline structure to allow the points of snow crystals to penetrate wax for grip. If the snow has no sharp points wax just doesn’t work. Snow flakes loose their sharp points when they get wet. This can happen when it rains or when the temperature is above freezing. Once the points are gone they don’t come back even if it refreezes. Melting and freezing cycles cause the snow to form coarse granules known as corn snow without points. Mechanical compacting and abrasion from skier traffic and grooming equipment can render snowflakes pointless and unwaxable.

Is it klister yet?
Learn to recognize the signs.
1) Wet tracks, 2) glazed, icy tracks, 3) granular old snow

These conditions can exist at various temperatures, so a variety of klisters are available to suit the temperature. My favourite and the most used is universal klister. It works above and below the freezing point. It’s only shortcoming is it tends to wear off easily.

How to Klister
This liquid adhesive can be messy to apply so equip yourself with plenty of wax remover, hand cleaner, rags and an apron to protect your clothes. Klister conditions usually coincide with hard track conditions. It should be applied to the tightest wax pocket (klister zone) on your ski base. This is the part of your base that does not contact the snow with 50% or less of your weight on each ski. Find and mark this zone by flex testing your skis. This will ensure good glide and wax longevity. Squeeze a thin bead of klister on both sides of you groove and spread it to form a thin even film in the klister zone. Use the spreader that is enclosed in your klister box. You can also use your thumb or the palm of your hand to spread this sticky stuff. It is easiest to apply klister indoors where warmth will keep it liquid and easiest to spread. For maximum durability use a warm waxing iron to melt the klister into the base. A colder base klister can be used as a base binder for long distances in abrasive tracks. Let the base klister cool before applying the final layer. Before you ski on a freshly klistered ski, cool it thoroughly to prevent moisture from attacking the warm klister. If the outside air temperature is above zero lay the ski base down with the klister as close to the snow as possible without actually touching it. Allow at least 20 minutes before skiing.

Tricky Stuff
Sometimes we have a mix of klister tracks and loose crystalline snow outside of the tracks or fresh falling or wind blown snow. This can cause the klister to stick to the snow giving you the dreaded stick and slip or even worse, forming clumps or snow stilts under your feet. To prevent this, apply a thin layer of hardwax over the frozen klister and cork it smooth. This can be more difficult if it occurs on the trail. Keep your skis sliding to minimize snow buildup as you go up hill and before you head downhill in the tracks. If that doesn’t dislodge the stilts take your skis off and scrape the bases clean of snow and apply a harder wax.

Success
When you get it right it can be the most satisfying skiing experience you will ever have because klister can provide perfect grip and glide equivalent to rollerskis.

Cleanup
To remove klister scrape as much as possible with a plastic scraper then apply Toko GelClean and soak a couple of minutes. Finally scrape the remainder away and wipe clean with a wax remover saturated piece of fiberlene. Or hot scrape with a warm glidewax. Drip glide wax over the remaining klister. Melt with an iron and finally scrape the base clean.

Application
After preparing your skis with conventional glide wax for the days conditions sprinkle a light dusting of this white powder on both sides of groove. Buff it into the wax with a fluoro buffer, or a synthetic cork that you use exclusively for fluoro gliders. For maximum durability iron the powder into the base with a hot iron before you buff. Finish by buffing the warm base and lightly brush with a horsehair brush. Your fluoro saturated buffer can be used for touch-ups. A new alternative is to buff with a roto cork for durability without ironing.

Health
Most fluoro powders are chemically inert. Or as Douglas Adams says “mostly harmless”. If exposed to the intense heat of an open flame it can break-down forming toxic ozone depleting gasses. Some people wear dust masks when handling these powders even though most manufactures don’t recommend their use.

• More Info
  Swix Nordix Waxing Manual
  Swix Nordic Waxing Video
  Ask Saul

Wax Q&A

You can even send us your waxing questions via E-mail. Questions and answers will be posted within the week of receiving them.

Q Combi Waxing, F4 Paste Wax

Ben & Andrea Tsui wrote:
> > Hello Saul & Beverly!
> > I am avid XC skier and mountain biker. I am proud to say that I am now the owner of my first pair of nordic skis.
> > My question is: "What is the best way to wax combi-type skis?". Should I scrape or even sand off glide wax from the wax pocket before applying grip wax? What if I want to stride and skate all on the same day/trip?

> > Secondly, what do you REALLY think of the Swix Super F4 paste in the can? Does it work? Does it compare to ironed on glide wax? Is this a good product for a combi skiier like me?

> > Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can offer! Hope you all get a chance to enjoy our Western snow some time...
> > Ben Tsui > Calgary, AB > -- > Cheers!

A Hi Ben.
Congratulations on joining the world of XC Skiing.
Grip wax should be removed with a scraper and a little bit of citrus wax remover.
Glide wax can hinder the ability of some grip waxes to stick to your base.
It is best to apply glide wax to the tips and tails of your combi skis. If you do use glide wax in the grip zone of your skis it may be nessessary to use wax remover to clean the grip zone prior to grip waxing for classic skiing.
You can switch from skating to ckassic. Start your day with a skate. Just with glide wax. Later in the day apply grip wax and stride away. Eather ski the grip wax off or remove it with citrus wax remover before you skate again.

A F4 is great. Use it on your glide zone and apply it daily. It is not as durable as hot waxing but it is very convenient.
-- Saul

Q > > Dear Saul:Thanks for a great page.
I would like to kmow if there is anything that can be put on the top of my skis to stop wet snow from accumulating there.
Thanks for your help > Martin Kerr Wiarton Ont.

A Yes. F4 Paste Wax keeps the snow sliding of all sides including the top. -- Saul

Q F4 Solid

> Is F4 wax as effective a base prep/cleaning wax as the swix CH line?
> Looking forward to hear from you. > Peter Wiltmann

A Hi Peter. The F4 solid is a great prep wax for Skate Skis. The fluoro is generaly not recommended as a prep in the grip zone of classic skis as it hinders, grip wax bond. The F4 is harder wax than most prep waxws and should be scraped while warm. -- Saul

Q Classic Rewaxing

> > On a new pair of classic skiis that you prepared the base for, I have F4 Paste (from the little tins) on throughout and a bit of red in the grip zone. After about 20-25 km of skiing, it has probably worn off. The skiis would neither glide or grip very well towards the end of the day. Now I would like to put on green wax. How should I best take off the remaining wax without ruining the prep work that you did?

On my skate skiis, I have no idea what is on from last year. I have Toko > white passion wax in both black graphite and a yellow, pink or light green.

> What are your suggestions? > > Brian Brill

A Hi Brian.
If the old wax has worn off just apply the new wax to the grip zone. Otherwise scrape the old grip wax off and clean the remaining wax with some fiberlene moistened with citrus wax remover. Apply grip wax in layers for maximum durability.... 3-4 thin layers.

On your Skate skis you can apply F4 Paste or hot wax right over last years glide wax. To ensure good base wax saturation keep adding wax. Wax remover should be used sparingly.
-- Saul

Q New Ski Prep

> > I saw your web site and thought it was great so I linked it to our club's home page. Exploits Valley Cross Country Ski Club, NF

> > One of our members recently bought a new pair of X-country skiis. I was wondering if you could tell me the best way to prepare the base.

> > Thanks > David Stoodley

A Thanks For the link.
Base Prep. Clean the base with Fibertex and wash with citrus wax remover to clean dust and dirt.
Prime the base as outlined in our clinic notes.
Happy trails. -- Saul

Q Grip vs Slip

> > Dear Saul, > > I am getting ready for a 55km race and am trying to fine tune my > waxing. Sometimes I'm right on and sometimes I slip. Can you give me a few > pointers regarding the following: > Can you tell me when I can tell a wax is too cold or too warm. Today when > I went out the temperature was around -17*C and I ironed on TOKO Blue Dib > kick wax(-3-13*c)for the binder, then corked on two layers of Swix Special > Green (-10-15*c). I felt I was slipping the whole time I was out and when I > stopped there was snow on the kick area. What does this mean....???( I have > been told to always choose my waxes 3-5*c warmer than the air temperature.) > Regarding a good kick zone.....how long should it approximatly be and > does it matter if it does not come right back to the heel?
>>Alix McLauchlan

A Hi Alix, Wax choice is based on age of snow and air temp. For Swix wax use the recommended wax temperature for fresh snow. As the snow ages and gets skied out it looses the ability to stick to the wax so you have to wax warmer for old snow. If the snow was sticking to your base, the wax choise was probably right. You must experiment. Follow these steps.

Pick the wax. Wax the grip zone. Cool the ski, then test. If you don't get enough grip wax a couple of inches forward. Try Again. Still no grip, lengthen the wax pocket even further forward. Try again. Still no grip. use a warmer wax and repeat the proceedure.

The size of your wax pocket depends on your weight and the actual stiffness of your ski. A good ski shop should be able to mark this right on the sidewalls of your ski. You might want to try a simpler wax system with broader temperature range waxes See wax selection in catalogue. The most important factor is ski flex and technique. Wax choice is not that critical for recreation.
-- Saul

Q Base Prep

> Dear Saul > > I've read your waxing tip info and I have a few questions.
> 1. You recommend priming the bases. Even if my skis are not new?
A Yes at least once per season.

> 2. You recommend starting with warm base wax. I used Swix nordic > racing glider, was this appropriate?
A Yes-- not critical.. most gliders will do

> 3. You didn't stipulate if you applied this warm base wax on the whole > base or just the glide zones?
A Pureist say only to glide zones... but it can go all over (my opinion)

> 4. Do you prime it just with one layer?
> 5. Then apply warm glide wax 10x. I think i just answered #1 for myself.
A Yes

> I don't think I used the right base wax.
A If its a glide wax its fine

> BUT... If i had and i am now applying the glide wax , how much do you > scrape off? Until you can't see anymore wax on the ski?
A Yes

> 6.I don't see in your catalog warm or universal glide wax vs cold finish wax. I have at home the f4 paste
A (not for base prep) ,
swix cera system 94 special polar
A (not for base prep)
and nordic racing glider.
A Sounds Right

> 7. thanks for the help. I love your mail order service. Very polite > and helpful staff that I have worked with.

Thanks! <<Wayne Hutson

-- Saul

Q Base Prep

Brian Kulchycki wrote:
> Hi Saul: > When you say to "Melt and remelt a warm or universal glide wax at least 10 times" do you mean to run the iron over the waxed area ten times, cooling between ironings
A YES
>or to melt new wax onto the base ten times?
A Only add new wax to as needed to maintain a good film of
molten wax. This replaces the wax that the base absorbes. (not a lot of
wax)
> Thanks in advance > Brian Kulchycki

-----Saul

Q Cold Wax, Cheap Iron
> Whenever it gets really cold, I melt on some Swix ch4 cold wax. When it cools, It seems impossible to scrape off. What should I do to make it easier?
> Also, I just bought a new Iron at a ski store. Its not specifically made for skis, but the salesman told me it was as good as the more expensive models. I had a hard time believing this, but I bought it anyway. Do you agree with the salesman?
Should I take it back and buy an expensive one?
> Thanks a lot,
Sam Timmreck

Hi Sam.
A Scrape the wax before it cools. Scrape the groove first to avoid slipping. Complete scraping and brushing after the wax has cooled.Cheap irons have imprecise thermostats and light weight bases.Temperatures can swing dramatically from very high to too low. This can
result in seared bases, smoking wax or cold sticking of the iron on your ski.....be careful. keep your iron moving forward at all times...don't back up to go over a patch you missed...get it on the next pass. Wax indoors at room temperature.
Best of luck
--Saul